Shoe-sewing machine



(No Model.) 3 Sheets- Sheet 1.-

L. GODDU. SHOE SEWING MAUHINE No. 578,559. 5 Patented Mar. 9-, 1897.

(No Model.) 3 SheetsSheet 2.

L. GODDU; SHOE SEWING MAGHINE.

No 578,559, Patented Mar. 9, 1897.

(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 3.

L. GODD U. SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

N0.-578,559. Patented Mar. 9, 1897.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

LOUIS GODDU, OEWINOHESTER, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO JAMES W.

Y BROOKS, TRUSTEE, OF PETERSHAM, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 578,559, dated March 9,1897. Application filed January 4, 1896. Serial No. 574,299. (No model.)i

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, LOUIS GODDU, of Winchester, county of Middlesex,State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines,of which the following description, in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, is a specification, like letters and numerals on the drawingsrepresenting like parts.

This invention has for its object the production of a novelsewing-machine more es pecially adapted to stitch the Welt to the upperand to the inner sole. The inner sole will preferably have a channel cutinto its face a short distance back from its edge, while the edge of theinner sole will be split and bent, one part up and the-other down, andthe upper will be pressed int-0 this part of the inner sole.

In my invention I employ a curved hooked needle which enters the weltand upper and emerges from a channel cut in the face of the inner sole,where it is provided with thread by a peculiar thread-presenting devicehaving a movement of rotation about theend-of the needle close to theend of the channelgage, which also acts as a work-rest to support thework against the thrust of the needle, the stitch being that known asthe chain, the loop or enchained part of the stitch lying on the welt.

The welt is presented to the upper and needle by a peculiar welt-guidehaving an outwardly-extended lip which acts on the upper close to-thestitch-making point and forces it closely into the channel or cornerleft by cutting or splitting the edge of the inner sole preparatory tothe action of the needle, the said welt-guide being shown as attached toa segment located close to and having its center of motion coincidentwith the center of motion of the needle-segment, the said segmentderiving its motion from a toothed bar which is moved by a segment underthe control of afoot-operated lever when the shoe is put into themachine, the said bar during the operation of stitching the welt to theupper and sole being moved forwardly after each stitch by mechanism tobe described to unclamp the work and permit it to be fed by afeed-point, and just before the needle is to enter the welt the said baris moved backwardly to cause the welt-guide to press on the upper andclamp it to the sole and force the sole against the channel-gage, thebar being antomatically moved forward and looked as the Welt-guidereaches its forward position, its position varying according to thethickness of the material being acted upon, and when the bar is movedforwardly to release the work for feeding the movement is for a uniformdistance from the surface of the work. This bar is moved as described bythe action upon ratcheted portions thereof of oppositelypointing pawlscarried by a lever and having a uniform motion for each stitch.

The particular manner of carrying out my invention will be hereinaftermore particularly described, and the features in which my inventionparticularly consist will be further set forth in the claims at the endof this specification.

The feeding of the material is effected by a feed-point carried by astraight reciprocating feed-bar, the feed -point entering only thebetween substance of the sole or that part of the sole lying between thetwo channels made therein, the said feed'point entering the face of thebetween substance and working in a line crossing the arc in which theneedle works.

Figure 1 is a right-hand side elevation of a sufficient portion of myinvention to enable it to be understood,the main shaft having been cutin section and the balance-wheel omitted; Fig. 2, a left-hand sideelevation of the said machine, some of the parts being partiall y brokenout, the said figure showing part of the driving-wheel and part of ashoe in position; Fig. 2, a detail to be described; Fig. 3, an enlargeddetail showing the channelgage and work-rest with the rotatablethreadpresenter; and Figs. 4 to 7, inclusive, are details showing theaction of the parts in the formation of the stitch.

In the drawings, A represents a column on which is mounted themachine-head A, it having suitable bearings for the working parts.

The main shaft A has applied to it a balance-wheel having a conicalfriction-face adapted to be engaged by the friction-face of a pulleyloose on said shaft and driven by a belt, as well known in sole-sewingmachines and substantially as in my application, Serial No. 574,042,filed January 2, 1896. The main shaft has fast on it two cam hubs'orblocks B and C,

The hub O has a cam-groove 0 (shown by dotted lines, Fig. 2) to receivea roller or other stud on and to actuate a lever or pawl carrier 0,having its fulcrum at 0 and provided with two oppositely directed orpointed spring-pressed pawls 0 0 adapted to engage at times,respectively, ratchet-teeth c c of a bar 0 having at its under sidesuitable rackteeth 2 to engage teeth of a segment a to which isconnected in suitable manner, as by a bolt 0 a welt-guide 0 having a lipor edge 0 to bear against the upper u of the shoe (see Fig. 2') andpress it firmly and snugly against the sole and, as shown, into thechannel made in the edge of the sole 3 close to the point where theneedle, to be described, is to enter the upper.

The bar 0 as shown, has at its under side, near its outer end,rack-teeth which are engaged by the teeth of a sector d, having itsfulcrum at d and provided with a lug or finger which is adapted to beacted upon by a guide-rod d jointed at d to an arm d fast on arock-shaft (1 having a second arm 61 jointed to a rod 3, attached inpractice to the rear end of a treadle, (not shown, but of usualconstruction,) it being pivoted between its ends on a stand attached tothe base of the machine, the front end of the treadle being normallykept elevated by a suitable spring, all as usual. A spring d supportedat one end against a lug extended from the framework and acting at itsother end upon a headed pin, causes said pin to be brought against thesector d, said spring normally acting to move the sector in thedirection to move the bar 0 in the direction to keep the welt-guidepressed against the upper with a yielding pressure, so that the saidwelt-guide may readily adapt itself to any variation in thickness of theupper. The sector dis designated in the claims as the barsliding sector.

The Welt-guide is removed from the upper preparatory to feeding theshoe, and said guide is always moved away from the upper for a definitedistance by the pawl 25, no matter what the thickness of the upper.

The hub B has a groove 1), which receives a roller or other stud on alever b, pivoted at b and carrying at its other end a stud W, on whichis mounted a tension and take-up wheel 19*, about which the threadbitaken from a suitable wax-pot b", is led, the said thread going fromthe said tension-wheel over a sheave b mounted on a stand b the threadbeing then led through a hole bored in the framework, as shown by dottedlines, Fig. 1, down outside the channel-gage and into the same through ahole 3, Where it is presented to be taken by the point h of thethread-presenter h".

The thread-presenter h is shown as a hollow tube fitted to be turnedabout within the shank of the channelgage, made also as a tube 9, with afinger-like extension g to enter the channel and to also constitute arest for the sole against the'thrust of the needle 12.

The upper end of the presenter It has a bevel-pinion 72 engaged by alike pinion h at the end of a rod 71 having its bearing in a stand 72,the rod having attached to its upper end a pinion 7?, which is engagedby the teeth of a toothed sector 72 forming part of a lever 71 havingits hub pivoted at h and provided with a roller or other stud 71 whichenters a suitable groove made in the periphery of the hub B.

The needle 01 is secured to a needle-segment at, which derives itsmovement from teeth at the under side of a rack-bar 7?, ac-

tuated by the teeth of a toothed sector a havin its fulcrum at n andhavin a roller or other stud M, which enters a cam-groove a, (see dottedlines, Fig. 2,) cut in the side of the hub O, the teeth of, the saidsector engaging the teeth at the upper side of said rack-bar, and inaction the sector presses on said bar in a direction to always maintainthe teeth at the under side of said rack-bar in engagement with theteeth of the needle-segment. 2

The shoe is fed by means of a feed-point m, attached to the lower end ofa straight bar m, provided at its upper end with teeth which are engagedby the teeth of a block m having a segmental series of teeth andprovided with a shank m which enters loosely a hole in one end of alever m having its fulcrum at M, and provided with an extension carrying a roller or other stud m which enters a cam-groove m (shown by fulllines, Fig. 2) in cam C.

The bar m is fitted to slide vertically in a guiding block or way m",having at its rear side a pivot m which takes a suitable bearpivothaving attached to it an arm m", provided with a roller or other stud mwhich bears against a cam-face made at one side of the hub B, the saidroll being kept against said cam by a suitable spring m (see Fig. 2%)acted upon by a screw m the said feedpoint working in a path whichcrosses the arc in which the needle works and entering the betweensubstance.

The segmental arm (1 is acted upon by a spring-pressed pin (W, said pinrestoring the arm and bar 0 into their normal position after the foot ofthe operator has been removed from the treadle referred to, the operatorhaving introduced the shoe into position to be stitched.

The two segments 0 and n havea common fulcrum o, and in practice theneedle has a steadyin g device or guide 19, (shown by dotted lines, Fig.2,) provided with a hole through" which the needle works, said guidebeing commonly used with curved needles, the said guide steadying theneedle as it enters the mg in a fixed part of the head A, the said workand while it is coming out, all in usual manner, or substantially asprovided for in my said application.

ThewaX-pot is heated by steam led into it from a suitable pipe, (notshown,) and a steam-pipe 'r" is then led therefrom through a block rwhich it heats, the tension device bearing against and being heatedthereby, the pipe continuing above said block and over to the oppositeside of the machine, (see Fig. 1, where said pipe is marked r said pipeheating a collar r, surrounding the channel-gage g, the pipe being thenled back to the steam-box, heating the same.

I have not shown the pipe so led back in Fig. 2, as it may be led backin any suitable path to be out of the way of the working parts and theoperator.

The pawl c is lifted from the ratchet'teeth c by acting against thewedge t and the pawl c by acting against the wedge t.

In the operation of my machine the operator, holding the lasted shoe inhis hand and with the feed-point in its highest position and the needleretracted, will depress the treadle referred to and move forwardly thetoothed bar a", withdrawing the welt-guide with its lip c away from thelower end g of the channel-gage, and will insert the work in theposition shown in Fig. 2, after which he will remove his foot from thetreadle andpermit the bar 0' to be moved backwardly by or through thespring cZ acting on the sector d,

thus enabling the work to be held between the welt-guide and thechannel-gage.

A welt having been put into the opening 20 (shown in Fig. l) in thewelt-guide, the machine will be started and the needle 91 will be thrustthrough the welt and upper, will enter the edge of the sole, preferablyat the bottom of a channel made by turning up a portion of the soleedge, and will emerge from the sole at the bottom of a second channelformed in the sole farther in toward its longitudinal center.

After the needle has fully entered the ma' terial the feed-point willdescend and enter the material preparatory to feeding the material afterthe needle shall have been withdrawn from the material.

Viewing Figs. 4 to 7, it will be seen in Fig. 4 that the needle has beenretracted and is yet in engagement with the loop of thread ing againthrust into the work, the thread-- presenter is moved from its normalposition, Fig. 4, into substantially the position, Fig.

5, thus drawing the threadout of the path of the needle.

The feed-point having acted and been withdrawn from the shoe and putinto its normal position and the welt-guide having been moved to clampthe shoe, the needle is again thrust through the material, and its pointcrosses the thread and enters the open lower end of thethread-presenter, substantially as in Fig. 6, and the feed-point againenters the shoe, and the needle is then started backwardly, and as soonas the hook of the needle gets firm hold of the thread and the hook ofthe needle has substantially reached the material the thread-presenteris turned backwardly, so as to give up its thread to the needle, so thatthe latter as it is drawn back through the material may have one side ofthe loop measured off, and the other half of the loop will be readilytaken from the takeup, which then comes forward, and as the needle drawsthe loop fully out to set the stitch the take-up is moved backwardly toaid the needle in shortening the loop in case there is more thread thanis required for the loop, the action of the machine being such as topull out enough thread at each operation of the needle for the materialof greatest thickness.

After the feed-point enters the between substance of the sole the workmust be released in order that it may be properly fed, and to do thisthe pawl c in the movement of the lever 0 acts upon the ratchet-teeth cand pushes the bar a forward sufficiently to turn the segment 0 andwithdraw the lip 0 of the welt-guide sufficiently away from the end ofthe channel-gage, so that the work may be moved freely, the needle beingout of the material. 1 The feed having been effected by a rockingmovement of the guide on", in which the bar m slides, the loosely-heldblock permitting this movement, the lever 0 will be moved in theopposite direction, and the pawl 0 will beremoved from the ratchet-teethc by the wedge 25, and the pawl 0 will pass the point of its wedge t andwill engage with one of the ratchet-teeth 0 then immediately located atthe end of the said wedge.

One or the other of the ratchet-teeth a will be presented to the pawl,according to the thickness of the upper, and having engaged the tooth ofthe said ratchet c the pawl will move the bar 0 .backwardly, and in sodoing will turn the segment 0 and force the lip e of the welt-guidefirmly against the upper, and the bar will be locked in such position,the weltguide crowding the upper firmly into the notch or shoulder ofthe sole at or close to the point where the needle at the next thrust isto pass through the welt and upper in the act of uniting the welt andupper to the between substanceof the sole.

When the needle has hold of the thread and is drawingit through thematerial to form a loop, the tension device is moved forward toward theneedle-fulcrum sufficiently IIO amount of thread so pulled out isincreased.

by carrying the thread through an eye 23, shown as fixed to the wax-pot.

The extra thread between the take-u p and tension-roll and the wax-potis delivered by the roll only as the necessity of the sewing requires,and after the needle shall have again rentered the welt on its way intothe upper and sole to again be supplied with thread the backward orreverse motion of the tension device 19 aids in taking up any slackthread and holding it ready to be again given up to the requirements ofthe needle.

I11 the machine herein shown and described I have taken great pains tosimplify the mechanism and to arrange the same compactly in the smallestspace possible.

The feed-point to feed the shoe enters, it will be seen, the betweensubstance of the sole substantially centrally between the outer andinner channel, and said point enters close to the right side of theneedle, then in the between substance, it being understood that thematerial is fed from the right to the left, as herein shown.

Feeding the work by the feed-point in this way obviates puncturing thewelt and produces the least injury possible to the between substance,and while sewing toes the feedpoint acts as a pivot about which the shoeis turned between one and the next stitch, and the channel-guide alwaysremains in a fixed position and in the channel.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secureby Letters Patent, is

1. In a sewing-machine, a needle-segment, its attached needle and astraight bar toothed at its under side to engage the teeth of saidneedle-segment and toothed also at its upper side, combined with atoothed sector to engage the teeth at the upper side of the said bar andmeans to actuate said toothed sector, the action of a toothed sector onone edge of said bar tending to always keep the teeth at the lower edgethereof in correct engagement with the teeth of the segment,substantially as described.

2. The welt-guide segment, its attached welt-guide, and a bar-slidingtoothed sector, combined with a sliding bar having two sets ofrack-teeth, one of which is engaged by the bar-sliding toothed sector,while the other of said sets engages the weltguide segment, a spring tocause said bar to keep the weltguide against the upper, and means toactuate the said bar-sliding toothed sector to cause the sliding bar toremove the welt-guide from the work, when the latter is to be taken fromthe machine, substantially as described.

3. A sewing-machine containing the follow- ,ing instrumentalities, viz:a hooked needle,

a stationary inwardly-inclined channel-gage to enter the channel in theface of the sole and sustain the material in opposition to the thrust ofthe needle, said gage having a hollow shank, a rotatablethread-presenter located in said hollow shank, and a welt-guide having alip extended from it at its side in contact with the upper, the said lipacting to bend the upper closely into the channel or shoulder made atthe edge of the said sole at or near the stitch-making point, a segmentto which said welt-guide is attached, and means to move said segment tooperate substantially as described.

4. A sewin g-machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz: acurved hooked needle, a stationary inwardly-inclined channel-gage toenter a channel cut in the face of the innersole and sustain it inopposition to the thrust of said needle, a straight slide-bar having afeeding-point, and means to actuate the said point to cross the arc inwhich the needle works, said point entering the top of the betweensubstance of the sole to feed the same,

combined with an independent welt-guide to act upon the upper and pressit firmly in con- I tact with the channel or corner made in the edge ofthe sole, and with mechanism to antomatically release the pressure ofsaid weltguide from the upper preparatory to the feeding operation,substantially as described.

5. In a sewing machine, a welt-guide a toothed segment upon which saidwelt-guide is mounted, and a bar having teeth in engagement with theteeth of the said segment, and two sets of ratchet teeth, combined witha movable carrier and two oppositely directedor pointed pawls adapted toengage each with the ratchet-teeth of the said bar to move and lock thesame alternately, as and for the purposes set forth.

6. In a' sewing-machine the following instrumentalities viz:achannel-gage composed of a tube having a finger or extension to enterthe channel, a thread-presenter made hollow at its lower end andprovided with a hook, and a hooked needle adapted to enter the hollowlower end of the said thread-presenter, combined with means to move thesaid threadpresenter to carry the thread across and about the needle inorder that the hook thereof may take the said thread when the needle isretracted, substantially as described.

'7. The tube-like channel-guide having an extension or finger andprovided with a hole for the passage of the thread, combined with athread-presenter made hollow at its lower end and provided with a hookh, a bevel-gear 71. a bevel-gear 7?, a rod to move the bevelgear lbs,and means to rotate said rod backward and forward, substantially as andfor the purpose described.

8. In a sewing-machine, a guideway pivotally mounted upon the frame,means to oscillate the said guideway, and a toothed bar placed in saidguideway and provided with a feed-point, combined with a lever, means tomove it, and a pivoted toothed block mounted upon the end of said leverand in engagement with the said bar, to operate, substantially asdescribed.

9. In a sewing-machine, a rigid stationary channel-gage to enter thechannel in the face of the inner sole, a welt-guide segment, itsattached welt-guide, a sliding rack-bar having teeth to engage the teethof the said segment, and a bar-sliding toothed sector, combined with aspring to act on said bar and normallykeep said welt-guide pressedtoward the upper, thereby permitting the said guide to adapt itself tovariations in the thickness of the upper, substantially as described.

10. The combination with an inwardly-inclined stationary channel-gage toenter the channel in the face of the inner sole, a hooked needle, itstoothed segment, and means to move the same, of a welt-guide, a toothedsegment to which it is attached, a toothed sliding bar engaging saidsegment, means to normally press the said bar with a yielding pressurein a direction to keep the welt-guide against the upper, feedingmechanism containing a straight feed-point to enter the betweensubstance of the sole, and means to act on said sliding bar to removethe welt-guide from the work for a uniform distance after each stitchpreparatory to feeding the shoe, no matter what the thickness of theupper, substantially as described.

11. In a sewing-machine, a guideway pivoted between its ends, a toothedbar free to slide in said guideway, a feeding-point attached to saidbar, a lever having a segmental toothed block pivotally mounted thereonand engaging the teeth of the said bar, and means to move said lever,combined with means to oscillate said guideway with its contained bar,whereby the said bar is moved laterally while the feeding-point is inthe work to thus feed the same, substantially as described.

- 12. The hooked needle, the channel-gage,

13. The combination with the hooked nee dle, its toothed segment, andmeans to move the same, of a welt-guide, a toothed segment to which itis attached, a toothed bar engaging said segment, means to normallypress the said bar with a yielding pressure in a direction to keep thewelt-guide against the upper, and means to move the, said bar in thedirection to increase the normal pressure of the welt-guide on the upperand lock the said guide in place while the needle ente'rs the work,substantially as described.

14. A stationary channel-gage or work-support, having a hollow shank,and a hooked needle to enter the material and present its hook at oneside of the shank of said channel-gage, combined with acircularly-movable thread-presenter, lying in the said hollow shank, andmeans to move said thread-presenter to wrap the thread about saidneedle,

substantially as described.

15. In a sewing-machine, the guideway having a pivot or stud m an armattached to said stud and provided with a roller or other stud, a cam toengage said roller-stud to oscillate said guideway, a toothedfeeding-bar fitted to slide in the said guideway and provided with afeeding-point, combined with a lever having a segmental toothed blockpivotally mounted upon its end to engage the teeth of said feeding-bar,to operate substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

LOUIS GODDU.

Witnesses:

GEO. W. GREGORY, EMMA J. BENNETT.

